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How to Replace a Door Slab. Home /. You will probably want to install new hinges along with the new door. If there were three hinges on the original door. A how-to on Door Knob Install in slab doors using a jig. Learning. Slab doors come with no holes in them for the door knobs and the hinges have to be mortised. It's not hard to install an interior slab door. Mark for the Hinges and Door Knob. While the door is lying flat, install the latch portion of the new knob by. Slab doors are basic, all-purpose doors you install yourself. Slab doors allow you to match existing jambs by cutting the mortise slots into the side of the door by.Door Knob Install in Slab Doors - I thought It would be a good idea to share my experience with door knob install in slab doors. Its one of those things that we assume is so simple that we never give it a second thought. Oh I’ll just replace all seven of the doors on my second floor and put pretty knobs on them” is what we (or at least I) said before embarking on the journey. Then you learn that there is a reason they sell prehung doors. Slab doors come with no holes in them for the door knobs and the hinges have to be mortised out. Notice I’m not doing a tutorial on mortising out hinges. I’ve still got a ways to go before I can give someone else advise on that. To less complicate the process, I bought a jig that makes the job almost foolproof. This kit was $1. 5 at Lowes and can also be found on Amazon. It comes with two hole saw bits, a hole drilling template, a routing template and a routing bit. It also comes with a hinge plate template but I didn’t use it. My doors needed a lot of customization due to my odd size of my doorways so my hings were installed already. I hung the door and inserted the hinge pins to properly line the door up with the strikeplate. I marked the center of the strikeplate on the door with a straight line. To avoid tear out from the saw bit, I placed painters tape over the area to be cut out. Painters tape is awesome and has tons of uses. I propped my door on its side and centered the template over the line and placed two small crews in the holes in the template to hold in place. I set my backset to 2- 3/8″ because I wanted the knob and rose (that square plate that sits behind the door knob) to be centered on the doors outer panel. I attached the large hole saw bit to my drill and set my drill to the max. I began drilling in the middle of the hole just until I saw the tip of the bit poke through the other side of the door. I backed the bit out of the hole and began drilling through he other side of the hole by placing the center of the bit in the hole that punched through the other side. Not drilling all the way through helps prevent tear out on the doors surface. I kept the bit as straight as possible. This bit crates a TON of saw dust so I wore a mask. I switched out the bit for the smaller 1″ to drill the hole for the lockset. This one drills all the way through into the bigger hole. You don’t see the tape anymore because I prematurely took it off after drilling the first hole. Now that both holes were drilled, I removed the two screws holding the template in place. The smaller router template fits perfectly into the holes created by the two screws. Since it’s plastic, I taped it down to keep it from moving . The tiny router bit fits into the chuck of your drill. This is the part I was apprehensive about. In my mind routers spin at least 2. RPM where as my drill probably does half of that. How is this router bit stuck into my drill supposed to pull this job off? I threw all of my logic out the window and gave it a try. Holy Smokes……it worked. It routed out perfect corners and to the proper depth. I had to use my chisel to remove the rest of the wood but it was a piece of cake. I used a 1″ chisel because it’s what I had. I’d suggest using a 3/4″ chisel for more wiggle room. It doesn’t look too pretty but it works. My lockset is adjustable between 2- 3/8″ or 2- 3/4″. Since I drilled my hole using the 2- 3/8″ setting on the template, I set my lockset to the same. There are instructions included with the lockset that tell you how to adjust it. Normally you just press a tiny button and slide it out. Next is the really easy part. Install the door knob in the slab door. I threaded the screws with my fingers as far as I could then finish with a MANUAL SCREW DRIVER. DO NOT use the power drill. One slip and the finish on your hardware is ruined. Speaking of the finish, I decided on Oil Rubbed Bronze after I had purchased all of my hinges so I did what any DIY’er would do,I sprayed them though I’m sure the strikeplate will probably scratch off quickly. I sprayed the heads of the screws and the hinge pins too. I normally use Rustoleum’s Oil Rubbed Bronze but I ran out. I gave Lowe’s Valspar brand a try and I have to say that I prefer the smoothness of it over Rustoleum. Time will tell if it holds up like Rustoleum. Now for the moment of truth…. They fit. And they catch. And I think they add just a little bit of class. The hinges look good too. The only thing I’m not sure about are the dummy knobs that I placed on my faux french closet doors. There weren’t any measurements for the dummy knobs available online and they just barely fit on that portion of the raised panel but they look awkward to me. I’ll leave them for now and see if they grow on me. If not I will replace them with something smaller. I knew I wanted knobs with a square rose and searched high and low for them at a reasonable price. I stumbled upon these Delaney Italian Collection Canova Edged Oil Rubbed Bronzeknobs on Home Depot’s website but ultimately ended up purchasing them for much less through Build. Overall the process was easy and painless thanks to the help of the jig. Nearly all of the boring construction has been completed in this room and I’ve begun making decorating decisions and purchases. The bed is 1. 00% complete and sometime in the next 8 days we should have our new mattress. Now I’m off to buy some fancy sheets so that I can show you the completed bed soon.
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November 2017
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